Curious about growing strawberries? In this post, we will teach you all the secrets to growing strawberries… even if you think you have a black thumb! In this post, we will discuss which varieties are available, how and when to plant, when to harvest, and how to prepare the fruit once it is in your kitchen.

How Many Strawberries Can You Eat?

My daughter, Charlotte, is six years old. She is in kindergarten and she is my very best garden helper. She is also one of the best Black Thumb Garden Club recruiters we have. She came home from school a few weeks ago with a list of little kindergarten sized signatures. When I asked her what it was, she told me that it was a list of all the kids in her class who wanted to join Black Thumb Garden Club…. how cute is that? 

Here’s another fun fact about Charlotte… she loves strawberries. I buy that kid a lot of strawberries… as in 2-4 pounds every week, all year round. I have always wanted to grow strawberries in my garden to keep up with the obsession, but have failed miserably my last two attempts. Ok, it’s really been three. But I am determined to get it right this year!

Strawberries are a great addition to any garden. I used to think that strawberries needed a bed dedicated just for them in order for them to be successful, but they can thrive in raised beds and traditional gardens growing right next with other plants and can do well in containers. 

The most important thing regarding location is sun. The plants need at least 6 hours of sun a day, but they prefer 8-10, so wherever you plant them, make sure it is nice and sunny!

Choosing the Best Strawberry Variety for Your Garden

There are three main types of strawberry plants:

Day-Neutral: Produces berries all summer, as long as the temperature is between 40-90 degrees. Examples include Albion, Elsanta, Seascape, and Tribute.

Everbearing: Produces two (maybe three) smaller crops- one in early summer and again in the late summer/early autumn. Examples include Jewel, Eversweet, and Quinalt. 

June-bearing: produce one large crop once a year, typically in June, but will be earlier if you live in a warmer climate. Examples include Flavorfest, Earliglow, and AC Wendy.

When deciding which strawberry is best for you, consider which of the above varieties would work best for you and then determine which specific type will grow well in your area. Local nurseries can help you know which types will do well.

This year, I am trying Eversweet strawberries in one of my raised beds. It is designed for southeastern gardens such as mine, where it gets hot and humid in the summers.

How to Grow (aka How Not to Kill) Strawberries

Strawberries like slightly acidic, sandy soil. The soil in raised beds works well for strawberries since it is loose and loamy. Make sure the soil is well draining… strawberries need a lot of water, but don’t need to be sitting in standing water.

Strawberries can be planted in either the spring or fall, but some gardeners advised planting in the spring if you live in zone 6 or warmer. This will give the plants a chance to be established before the winter.

I wanted to plant my strawberries in the fall here in San Antonio, but could not find any plants anywhere. The local nurseries ensured me some were on their way, but they never came. I opted to plant in January as soon as I could get my hands on some. 

When planting strawberries, depth is very important. You will purchase strawberry plants as either established plants or bare root plants- which are basically roots with a little brown stem sticking up in the top.

You want to plant both established plants and bare root plants so that the crown (the part of the plant where the roots end and the plant begins) is even with the soil. If you plant too little of the plant or too much of the plant, it will not grow right. Don’t worry though- it is pretty easy to determine where the crown is. I’ve included this handy illustration to help you out :) 

Dig a hole that your roots will easily fit in without bending, place the plant in the hole so the crown is even with the soil and cover the roots. Water regularly (about one inch per week) and watch your strawberries grow!

Strawberries will also benefit from a layer of mulch- preferably straw. This will help with water retention and will keep the berries off of the soil as they grow.

In order to ensure proper root development, pinch the blossoms off June-bearing plants for the first year (sad, I know, but totally worth it!) and for the first few months of everbearing and day-neutral varieties. 

Also, try to limit the amount of “runners” a plant produces the first year. A runner is a long shoot that anchors to the ground to produce a new strawberry plant. These new plants are called daughter plants and are the way that the plant reproduces.

When (and How) to Harvest Strawberries

Once you allow blossoms to grow into berries, it will take 4-6 weeks until you can start eating. You will know the berries are ready when they have turned red.

At the end of the growing season, cut the foliage down to one inch. You can use a mower or scissors and cover with about 4 inches of mulch or straw for the winter. Clear the mulch off in the spring and let your strawberries make a comeback.

Strawberry Preservation and Storage

I think that we can all agree that strawberries are best enjoyed fresh, but they can easily be frozen. If you have a large enough harvest, you can make jam, jelly, or pie filling.

Strawberry Fast Facts

Crop Rotation Group: None- strawberries are perennials. Avoid planting in the same spot that recently grew tomatoes, eggplants, or peppers.

Planting Method: Transplant young nursery plants or bare roots

Structural Support: None needed

Number per Square Foot: 4

Days to Harvest: 4-6 weeks after blossoms form

I hope that your strawberry harvest brings you as much joy as I am hoping mine brings my daughter. Let me know how it goes for you… I may need some help as we go for attempt number four!